Add UKDM EL Dials to UKDM pre facelift car

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Add UKDM EL Dials to UKDM Pre-Facelift car by Indigolemon

I've had a set of UKDM EL dials for ages now, but lacked the connectors to fit them to my car.

I finally got my hands on a Post-Facelift UKDM Dash Loom (from footwell to footwell, spanning the entire dash), and after looking at the plugs realised where it connected to the rest of the car it was pretty much identical to my Pre-Facelift loom.

After dismantling the dash, I unplugged the current loom and set about removing it from the dashboard. This resulted in tons of tiny cuts and scrapes all over my hands as some of the areas you need to work in are really tight. Also worth noting that it is wrapped in some stupidly sticky tape, I highly recommend wearing gloves!

Next, I fed the Facelift loom into the dashboard, and plugged it in. I encountered two issues.

  1. My indicators were inverse. That is they were lit up green constantly, and went out when the exterior bulbs came on.
  2. My heater controls, cruise/sunroof controls, hazard light switch etc would not light up when I turned my sidelights on.

These were both caused by two differences between the looms:

  1. The Facelift loom has an extra earth on the passenger side.
    • FIX: Simply splice this in to any other earth under the dash - this fixes problem 1, your indicators will now work as normal.
  2. The Facelift loom has 2 less wires on the larger grey connector on the drivers side. These appear to be a send and return to the dimmer switch in the centre console. As they go nowhere, your switches and controls never light up.
    • FIX: I got round this by bypassing these send/returns at the dimmer control unit on the dash itself. This is the black unit in the white plastic area to the left of the clock. Simply jumper the RED wire to the BLK wire on the plug here, and your dash will light up when you turn your sidelights on. You lose the ability to dim your switches/heater controls, but personally I never used this anyway. Interestingly, the switch on the dimmer switch still works fine - so you can force the EL gauges, temp/fuel gauges and clock to full brightness if required.

Finally - reassemble the dash, and you're done!